The brand-new Sanctuary of St. John Paul II — built on the outskirts of Kraków, where he served as archbishop — is an impressive place to visit. When you travel around Europe, you rarely see new churches. And the old churches you see often feel more dead than alive...more for tourists than for worshippers. But in Poland, churches are alive with the faithful. In small Polish towns, there's a strong tradition of building huge, architecturally daring churches as a sign of both civic pride and deep